In the week since we published our 1-year review of the Gyraline G1 (AKA the Gyraline DIY) , we have seen quite the reaction from the DIY alignment community. A number of customers and enthusiasts have come out to share their experiences with their Gyraline G1 and G2 devices, many of whom echoed our findings. We have also seen a spike in site traffic from a few specific areas where we happen to know where Gyraline's founders reside. We also noticed two new, suspicious-looking anonymous posts on the Gyraline User Group that aggressively touted the accuracy and precision of the Gyraline G1 and G2 products to no one in particular. A quick look at our website analytics, Google search analytics, and a re-visit to the recently updated Gyraline website confirmed our suspicions. Our article has gained the attention of Gyraline's employees and its most fanatical fans. So we thought we would take the opportunity to go into detail around how the Gyraline works, where the limit of accuracy and precision come into play, and why we recommend that you avoid the Gyraline G1 and use caution with the Gyraline G2. Quick Access: Why isn't the Gyraline G1 consistent or reliable? Can't you calibrate your phone to improve accuracy? Every tool has a learning curve. Don't you just need to learn how to use the Gyraline? How CAN you improve the accuracy of the Gyraline G1 / G2? Why wouldn't the G2 be accurate to 0.01 degrees of precision? What about Gyraline's Accuracy Study? Is Gyraline a scam? Have any other questions? Why isn't the Gyraline G1 consistent or reliable? We'll start with the big question - Why doesn't the Gyraline work as advertised? Having worked on project that pushed the limits of the iPhone (and various Android phones') IMU packs, we are aware of several limitations. Here are the top 4, from the author's perspective as a setup engineer with 20 years of experience with a variety of alignment tools: iPhones rely heavily on the device's magnetometer to measure headings. But you can't use it for an alignment The big limitation of using an iPhone for these types of measurements is that the gyroscopes and accelerometers in these devices are budget-friendly consumer grade devices and rely on the magnetometer (compass) to maintain consistent heading measurements. The problem is, you can't rely on the magnetometer when using your phone to measure the toe on a car's wheels. Why? Modern cars have so much ferrous metal in them that they affect the magnetometer's readings. This limits the Gyraline app to relying primarily on the phone's gyroscope and accelerometer, which affects its precision. Which leads to the second problem: Without the magnetometer, the IMU pack in modern iPhones can only sustain a precision of ±0.5 deg to ±2 deg in yaw after the first few seconds All IMU packs, including those in iPhones, exhibit a phenomenon known as sensor drift. What this means is that the accuracy of the sensors decrease over time, as they lose their reference point. This sensor drift happens faster than you would expect. In fact, this drop in accuracy happens in seconds and only gets worse over time. This is why iPhones (and Android phones) seem to never live up to Gyraline G1's claims of ±0.05 degrees in yaw (rotating left and right, as if you were measuring toe on a car), even with algorithmic correction. Phones can only sustain that accuracy for a few seconds before the sensors in the IMU start to drift. Without the magnetometer to help sustain its reference point, you should expect sensor precision in the range of ±0.5 deg to ±2 deg in yaw after 8 to 10 seconds of use. And that is with the help of software techniques to improve the accuracy of its results. Due to gyro drift, that precision only gets worse over time. Expect accuracy to drop to ±1 deg to ±3 deg after just a few minutes This one is self-explanatory. Even with software correction techniques, the precision of phone gyros degrades to over 1 degree of yaw in minutes. While it is possible to extend the time by taking intermittent reference readings, this can be difficult depending on the application. This is why some of the most careful users of Gyraline have gotten some of the least consistent results. They take too long in moving between measurement points, inadvertently allowing the sensors to drift away from their reference point. The iPhone gyroscope is very temperature-sensitive, and iPhones have no mechanism for correcting this This one is big, and there is very little you can do about it. Apple's official documentation specifies that iPhone's sensors are the most accurate when the ambient temperature is between 60 deg F and 72 deg F (or 16 deg C and 22 deg C) . This temperature range is closest to factory calibration range. Outside of this range, the sensors become significantly less accurate. Too cold and the gyro drift will become worse. Too hot and the sensors will pick up noise that will affect the quality of the readings. Those of us who have experience with alignments already know why this is a problem: DIY alignments are rarely performed in perfect, climate-controlled conditions. The author has performed alignments in near-freezing temperatures and searing summer heat nearing 100 degrees Fahrenheit (37 deg C), both inside shop spaces and in the field. Many of our fellow racers work in much harsher conditions. The iPhone's built-in sensors, and therefore the Gyraline G1, will not produce reliable measurements in these "extreme" temperatures. And yes, this issue affects all IMU packs, including those built into the Gyraline G2 unit. Can't you calibrate your phone to improve accuracy? This question was posed from a user on the Gyraline User Group posting using an account with a pseudonym and a suspicious locked profile called "Need Speed." Here's the screenshot of their post: "Need Speed" recommends a series of AI-summarized calibration steps from an older version of iOS as a way to improve the accuracy of the Gyraline G1. The problem? The Figure 8 calibration procedure and Location Services toggle only affects the magnetometer (the magnetic compass), which does not help with the accuracy of the Gyraline. Instead, we recommend simply checking the health of the built-in sensors using an app (there are several free ones on the App Store) and restarting the iPhone prior to using it for any precision work. As an aside, it is notable that "Need Speed" admits in this very same post that they have not compared the readings of their Gyraline G1 with any other alignment system. This is just another reason why you should ignore "Need Speed"'s advice. Every tool has a learning curve. Don't you just need to learn how to use the Gyraline? In the same Gyraline User Group, another anonymous participant accused critics of the tool of using the tool improperly. A sampling of his similarly aggressive posts and comments are listed in the gallery below: There are three fundamental problems with this unnecessarily belligerent argument: DIY alignment tools (and in fact, all commercial alignment tools) must be designed to be as easy as possible for an untrained user. This is a matter of catering to your customers. The average car enthusiast or novice alignment tech does not have the time to scale the steep learning curve of a new tool. That's why toe plates and camber gauges now come with such detailed instructions, and why we took the time to write an unofficial assembly manual for the promising B-G Racing string rack . Good alignment tools have a very shallow, or even a flat, learning curve. By admitting that its learning curve is steep, this Anonymous Participant is confirming that the Gyraline is not an appropriate tool for the average car enthusiast. This Anonymous Participant is baselining his Gyraline to the notoriously imprecise Dunlop Optical Alignment gauge For those of us who are too young to remember, the Dunlop Optical Alignment gauge is a toe gauge that was popular in the 1960s. They look like this, work primarily based on a periscope and a set of mirrors, and are well-known for their ease of use: A Vintage Dunlop Optical Gauge. They can still be found on eBay They are also known for having warped over time and are notorious for their poor precision. A well-respected vintage racer once shared that you should expect precision in the range of ±0.2 to ±0.3 deg from a well-preserved set. This is significantly worse than what you can expect from a set of brand-new toe plates or from a modern string alignment rack. In fact, an alignment on a toe gauge with a precision tolerance of ±0.3 degrees will return measurements that are outside of the tolerance range of the factory specs for most passenger cars. If you need to baseline your measurements on a DIY alignment tool, we recommend using a set of Longacre toe plates. They are checked for straightness at the factory and will offer substantially better precision than this vintage gauge. This anonymous poster offers no helpful advice as to how one could tackle the learning curve of using a Gyraline G1/G2 This probably will not come as a surprise to anyone who spends a significant amount of time online: Scouring through this Anonymous Participant's contributions reveals that he gives no useful advice on how to get more reliable or precise measurements with a Gyraline G1 / G2. It is all too easy to assume that this post was submitted by a fanatical follower who is affiliated with Gyraline LLC, possibly an older friend or family member of one of the founders. Based on the wording of his posts and his misspelling "Dunlop" as "Dunllop" (a common misspelling from car enthusiasts of a certain vintage) and a bit of OSINT by yours truly, this assumption may very well be correct. How CAN you improve the accuracy of the Gyraline G1 / G2? Despite the fact that we were not able to get consistent results from our Gyraline G1 during our 1-year re-test , we can offer some advice to those of you who would like to try to use the device: Work in a flat, level, and temperature-controlled environment When we first tested the Gyraline G1, we did it in a temperature controlled indoor environment which was kept at 65 degrees F (18 degrees C) and had a perfectly flat and level working surface for the car. We recommend working in similar conditions at all times. We also recommend finding a flat, level spot on the floor near the centerline of the car for the gyro calibration step (where you place the device on the ground for a few seconds prior to using your Gyraline). *And yes, we used similar conditions for our 1-year retest. Work quickly. Move from wheel to wheel in less than 10 seconds The accuracy of IMU sensor packs degrade rapidly after the first 8 to 10 seconds. In order to ensure accuracy, we recommend that you take each toe measurement within 10 seconds of each other. This means moving from wheel to wheel in under 10 seconds, while keeping the Gyraline frame straight, level, and pointed in the same direction. This means working very quickly, faster than you typically would with other alignment tools. We recommend clearing your work area as much as possible and mark the measurement points on each wheel with a marker beforehand to ensure that you are measuring on the same spots every single time. Keep the device flat, LEVEL, and pointed in the same direction when moving around the car The Gyraline manual recommends that you keep the device flat and pointed in the same general direction as you move around the car. We also recommend that you keep the device level on the long end, to reduce sensor drift. Bend your knees slightly, walk carefully, and keep your device pointed in the same direction at all times. Why wouldn't the G2 be accurate to 0.01 degrees of precision? In the past few days, the Gyraline G2 page on the official website has been updated to remove any mention of the G1 or G2's precision. Here are the before and after screenshots, comparing early January to early February. Note the claim of "Up to 0.01 deg Ultra-High Precision" on the top left of the first screenshot, which has been replaced with a generic claim of "Reference-Grade Repeatability" just a few weeks later. Update 2/13/2026 - This was then replaced with the misleading "0.01 deg Resolution" after they re-opened pre-orders for the new Gyraline G2 Delrin device. The author cautions readers that 0.01 degrees of resolution does NOT equate to 0.01 degrees of precision: Although the average consumer may see this as a bait and switch marketing tactic, they would be absolutely correct. The reality is that the makers of the Gyraline G2 should have never promised ±0.01 degrees of precision, even under ideal conditions. This is because there are no industrial-grade or DIY MEMS packs that can promise ±0.01 degrees of precision at the price point of the Gyraline G2. For reference, a Movella MTi-3 AHRS Dev kit (a commercially available industrial-grade MEMS pack) has a retail price of $469 US and can get to a precision of 0.2 deg of precision in Yaw with GNSS Satellite assistance . This can be further refined down using software algorithms, but not to the ±0.01 degrees of yaw precision that the original Gyraline G2 product page promised. A Movella MTi-3 AHRS Dev kit, which retails for almost as much as a Gyraline G2 Hardware-level precision of ±0.01 degrees in yaw typically requires a fiber-optic gyroscope, in units such as the SBG Apogee-D. For those of us who may not be familiar, the SBG Apogee-D is a military grade component that is typically used for UAVs and marine navigation. Needless to say, products like this are out of reach of the average commercial electronics provider, and cost significantly more than the Gyraline G2's unit cost (and not by a small margin either). So what kind of MEMS pack IS in the Gyraline G2? Given the price point and the work required to integrate and calibrate the units, a more realistic option for a product like the Gyraline G2 is something like this Witmotion Shenzen WT901 , an affordable IMU that can be purchased for under $35 US: A Witmotion Shenzen Ltd WT901, an affordable consumer MEMS unit available commercially Under perfect conditions, with proper calibration, and on a single spot measurement, units like the Witmotion WT901 can theoretically claim up to ±0.05 degrees of precision in yaw. As we mentioned earlier, however, Gyraline alignments require the user to take 4 to 6 spot measurements in different places. Each additional measurement reduces the precision of the overall measurement, and the time needed to move between points causes sensor drift. Given this reality, a realistic precision figure for an alignment performed with the Gyraline G2, with its external MEMS pack, would be ±0.1 to ±0.2 degrees in yaw, which is closer to the precision claims for the original Gyraline DIY than for the G2. What about Gyraline's Accuracy Study? Gyraline has reformatted and updated their accuracy study of the Gyraline G1 several times since the inception of the site. Here is the study in its current form, captured as a screenshot in case it is edited again: Any of us who have any experience reading academic studies will immediately notice the following textbook issues: Sample size of 1 car Limited testing conditions Selective framing of results Critical details omitted (e.g. what does "2023 model car" mean?) No peer review / independent verification But the biggest problem - The premise of Gyraline's Accuracy Test is fundamentally flawed. A relevant accuracy study of a new tool would not revolve around performing 10 measurements on 1 car. A more relevant study would involve 10 different cars, with 1 measurement taken on each using the Gyraline, and each car baselined against a reliable, well-known alignment system. Because of these issues, we recommend that you ignore the results of Gyraline's accuracy study. Is Gyraline a scam? Not quite, but it is safe to say that their marketing claims do not reflect the reality of their products and that their pricing and products change with unusually high frequency. And seeing how a brand-new version of the G2 was announced as we wrote this article, it's hard to say whether this will change any time soon. Those of us who have tracked the product since inception remember that the original Gyraline was $79.99, and that it was the entry-level companion to a pro-focused Gyraline Quick Check that had a planned price tag of $1299.00 as well as a monthly fee of $99. In just over a year, this price dropped to $39.98 with a subscription, then bounced back up to a $159.98 one-time fee, then up to $499 and $739 for the Founder's Edition Gyraline G2 models, and has now transformed into single G2 model with a $599.00 price tag as of February 9th, 2026. This wild fluctuation in price and product is, at best, opportunistic marketing, and at worst, repeated cases of bait-and-switch sales tactics. Meanwhile, feedback from other customers of the G1 indicate that support for the older Gyraline devices has degraded noticeably, with some users reporting that they are now receiving unhelpful (and sometimes dismissive) responses to their inquiries. This is unusual for a hardware-dependent product that is less than 2 years old. It is only fair to assume that customers of the Gyraline G2 could face a similar degradation of support for their devices over time. Gyraline's actions seem to reflect those of a tech startup with an ambitious product that is trying to reach solvency rather than an outright scam. That said, customers should be aware that either one can take your money without delivering on their promises. In short: Proceed with caution. Have any other questions? The above analysis was written by an author who has over two decades of software development experience, hands-on experience with mobile phone development and IMU hardware, hands-on training with both DIY and professional level alignment tools and has raced at the club and pro level in various capacities. If you have any other questions, feel free to write to us via our Contact Us form . We will be happy to respond to any questions to the best of our ability. We may even add to this article if we think your question might help others. In the meantime, see you at the track. ~R Disclosure Section: StudioVRM and Roger Maeda are not affiliated with Gyraline or any of the other vendors mentioned here. Any of the parts purchased and reviewed for this article have been purchased at full price from our team's car development budget and Roger's own pocket.

In 2024, we stumbled upon a social media ad for an intriguing new device - The Gyraline DIY (now called the Gyraline G1), a combination of a 3D printed jig and mobile app that promised to turn your iPhone or Android phone into a precision device for DIY alignments. It came in several price tiers, the most affordable of which was a $40 US starter option, which paid for one 3D printed Gyraline frame and a pay-per-use subscription for the app so you could quickly check your toe, camber, and caster at home for just $1 per hour of use. Being a setup-focused racer with a background in software and mobile app development, yours truly found the concept fascinating. While the low cost of entry and the pay-as-you-go price was a big part of the appeal, we wanted to do a thorough test. So, we opted for the top-shelf option available at the time - the Gyraline frame with a lifetime license for all functions of the app, all for the tantalizingly off-kilter charm price of $139.98 US. Initial tests with our iPhone 13 showed promise. The UI was a little raw, and the device was sensitive to bumping and jostling, but - generally speaking - it worked. We tested it on three cars, compared the results to our tried-and-tested B-G Racing string alignment rack and found that you could get 4-wheel toe measurements that were within 0.2 degrees if you took a few measurements and averaged them out. We ran a number of tests on a few more cars and sent a long list of feedback and suggestions to Gyraline's support email and continued to try the Gyraline on various cars, both in the shop and at the track. The plan at the time was to continue testing the device and write a long-term review in which we tested the devices in real-world situations at various racetracks during the 2025 season. Fast forward 14 months to today, and our Gyraline G1 is sitting on a shelf, collecting dust. We never got as far as the article, as we had stopped using it entirely by the 5-month mark. So... what happened? At the time, we were banking on the accuracy and user-friendliness of the app changing for the better as time went on. And while the app did change, it didn't change in the ways that we had hoped or expected. The first thing that changed was the pricing. Within weeks of us receiving our Gyraline device, the entry level "pay-as-you-go" option disappeared, leaving the lifetime license (which had increased to $159.98) as only option. This immediately posed a problem for the value proposition of the tool. The Gyraline DIY was a great deal for the average car enthusiast at its launch price of $39.98 + $1 per hour of use. But at almost $160 US, you could easily buy a set of toe plates from a tried and trusted manufacturer along with a digital camber gauge that would be both faster and easier to use than the one in the Gyraline app. Then, came a series of app-breaking software updates. A few months later, the user interface changed into something that was clunkier and harder to use, with certain options (like measuring front toe angles in the more accurate Body Align mode) no longer working the way that they had before. At one point, we tried to do a quick check on a car that had been recently aligned, and the Gyraline G1 displayed readings that were wildly different from what we had expected from the previous spec sheet. A bit of research revealed that the app had auto-updated to a version with a known bug that affected the accuracy of measurements, and updating to the next version would correct the issue. Fortunately, we were at the shop where we had a strong internet connection and were able to update the app there and then. Shortly after, the company abandoned development of the Android app, citing inconsistencies in the onboard IMUs (a combination of the accelerometer, gyroscope, and magnetometer) that come with some Android devices. This decision was understandable, as the sensors on different Android devices do come one of from several different vendors, and some Android phones lack a hardware sensor hub (the microprocessor array that ties the key sensors together) entirely. So the fact that they got rid of this option was not a big surprise. What was a surprise was that we found that the app had issues with certain models of iPhone. Our iPhone 15 Pro gave us erratic measurements in Thrust Align mode and couldn't even produce a Surface Profile that was consistent enough to use Body Align mode. We soon realized that we couldn't, in good conscience, recommend an alignment device that would produce inconsistent results for an average car enthusiast. By the time our 2025 race season was underway, our Gyraline G1 and our iPhone 13 had found a permanent home on the bookshelf in our office. The Re-Test - 1 Year Later Despite this, social media ads wouldn't let us forget about our unused Gyraline G1. Yours truly started to see an average of two Gyraline ads per day on Facebook, just from catching up with posts and responding to messages from friends and fans. Most of them were for the new Gyraline G2 model, which now had a sturdier case and an external sensor pack that promised higher consistency and compatibility with Android devices. Then, out of the blue, an innocent-looking post popped up on the Professional Awesome Racing Technical Group asking if anyone had any firsthand experience with the Gyraline. That got us wondering - Had the Gyraline G1 improved at all in the past year? We had to put it to the test. Fortunately for us, the ProjectCRX Honda CRX Si happened to be in our shop, having just been corner weighted and aligned in preparation for a dyno tuning session. All we had to do was air up all four tyres to 30 psi, ensure that the wheel was straight ahead, and roll it onto the measurement pads that we have pre-marked for alignments and corner weighting. Based on our electronic records, we knew that ProjectCRX had the following alignment, as measured on our B-G string rack and verified with our Longacre Quickset arms: Front Total Toe: 0.15 deg in Rear Total Toe: 0.15 deg in Thrust Angle: +0.1 deg (rear wheels pointed to the driver's right) The question was: How close could our Gyraline G1, using the latest version of the app, get to these figures? In preparation, the author re-watched the latest instructional videos and re-read the manual (which still as of time of testing had a last update date of March 2025) to make sure that we were following the instructions to the T. We then measured the toe on all four wheels, using the new Thrust Angle measurement mode (which replaced the old Body Align mode) to record the rear toe and thrust angle, then switching to the Align Toe mode to get toe measurements on all four wheels. The Results The results speak for themselves. And unfortunately, they are not good. The Thrust angle measurements came within 0.05 degrees of the reference measurements two out of three times. On one of the attempts, the Gyraline reported completely inaccurate measurements for both rear total toe and thrust angle: The 6-Point Toe measurement was even more inconsistent. Not only did it give us completely inaccurate figures every single time, not a single one result agreed with the total rear toe measurement that the Gyraline had given us in Thrust Angle mode: This was admittedly a shock. When we had tested the Gyraline G1 on the very same car in the same shop space in early 2025, we noted that it would be off by a few tenths of a degree, with an occasional outlier. It did not have the wild inconsistencies that we saw during this re-test. We re-checked the toe on the car using our Longacre Quickset toe arms and our digital measuring tapes just in case the alignment had shifted somehow while it was in storage. As expected, the toe arms agreed with the measurements we had taken two months earlier. A bit of searching online revealed that there was a bug in one of the recent versions of the Gyraline app that was throwing off measurements. While the version we were using was not the version reportedly affected by this bug, we force-updated the app to the latest version and tried again. The following screenshots show the better of the two measurements that we got using the latest version of the Gyraline app: As you can see, updating the app made no difference to the accuracy of the measurements. The key results were still more than 0.3 degrees of toe off - well outside the acceptable tolerance range for anything smaller than a Ford F150. Our iPhone 13 was purchased as a test device for mobile app testing, had never been used outside of the office and the shop space, nor has it ever been dropped or jarred. But we tested all of the onboard sensors using the Sensor Kinetics iOS app to make sure that it had not suffered some sort of fluke sensor malfunction. As expected, all of the onboard sensors were healthy and working as expected. As one final test, we took our iPhone 15 Pro, removed it from its case, loaded it onto the Gyraline, and tested it with the older but proven version 2.22.7 of the Gyraline app. As we had seen in our initial set of tests, our iPhone 15 Pro could not produce a Surface Profile scan that was accurate enough to use the Body Align mode, and as a result, the 4-wheel toe measurements came back looking dramatically skewed: The fact that the front and rear total toe angles shown in Body Align mode came back within 0.05 degrees of the reference measurement might look promising, but when you compare them to the results of Thrust Align mode, you can see that this is the result of coincidence rather than precision. Conclusion & Recommendations Here's the reality: Alignment tools need to be consistent first, then accurate. If you are aligning a street car or a weekend warrior track car, it does not matter that your homemade string alignment setup and bubble level camber gauge might be consistently 0.2 degrees off compared to the measurements from a Hunter Hawkeye Elite alignment rack. What does matter is that you can pull your alignment kit off the shelf at any time and that you can produce the same consistent results, each and every time that you use it. At the time of writing, the Gyraline G1 fails this basic requirement. Combine that with the fact that the Gyraline G1 is now $189.98 along with a recent change to a finicky login-based authentication system (from the reliable QR code activation system that it used to have), and it makes the Gyraline G1 impossible to recommend, even for experimentation purposes. Instead, we recommend a set of toe plates with thrust angle measurement features (such as this Autosolo 3-in-1 toe plate set ) and combine that with an affordable camber gauge or a digital angle like this one from Klein Tools . You will be able to get 4-wheel toe and camber measurements in the same amount of the time that it will take to check and re-check your measurements using a Gyraline G1. And you can trust that the results will be both consistent and repeatable. With the money you'll save by going with the toe plates, you can even upgrade the measuring tapes for the Autosolo toe plates to a set with better ergonomics and a stronger retractor mechanism (as the tapes included with the Autosolo kit do feel a bit cheap compared to say, a pair of Tajima G-Series measuring tapes). Now - What about the Gyraline G2? If you take one look at Gyraline's current marketing campaign as well as the posts from the company on the Gyraline User Facebook Group , it is very clear that the founders are betting the future of the product line on the G2. The G2 is a new unit with a sturdier Delrin (or Aluminum) case and an external sensor unit. It claims to be compatible with both Android and iOS phones and claims up to 0.01 degrees of precision for the 3-sensor Elite model. Those of us with experience with professional alignment tools and/or have worked with mobile IMU arrays will be immediately skeptical of that claim of 0.01 degrees of precision in this application. Rightfully so. The most accurate stationary laser alignment racks promise precision in the range of ±0.02 degrees, and IMU arrays built with commercially available parts can only reach that level of precision in theory . Even the Setup Wizzard , widely considered to be the gold standard for aligning GT and Prototype Cars, only promises a precision of ±0.5 mm (approximately ±0.06 degrees) for toe and ±0.1 degrees for camber. Gyraline's precision claims are both suspicious and unnecessary. Moreover, at the new price of $499 US for the most affordable Delrin-frame 2-axis model and $739 US for the Aluminim-frame 3-Axis model, the Gyraline G2 is well in the price range of tried-and-tested portable alignment tools from the likes of Longacre, SPC, Smartstrings, and B-G Racing. Those prices are even encroaching into the territory of weld-it-yourself hub stand kits which are basically foolproof to use, even for novice mechanics and setup engineers. Given this (and the fact that the G2 is currently listed as Out of Stock as of early February 2026), we strongly recommend that you consider proven alternatives. If you do decide to purchase a Gyraline G2, we recommend that you proceed with caution and periodically verify your measurements using other alignment tools. In the meantime, see you at the track. ~R Update - Feb 10, 2026: Due to the positive response to this review, we have released a follow-up article where we do a technical deep-dive into the Gyraline G1 and G2, explain why these devices don't work as well as claimed, and provide our take on a question that has been circulating around on forums: "Is the Gyraline a scam?" Here's a link for those of us who want the details: Why is the Gyraline Problematic? Debunking the Fanatics Disclosure Section: StudioVRM and Roger Maeda are not affiliated with Gyraline, B-G Racing, Longacre, SPC, Klein Tools, Tajima, Setup Wizzard, Smartstrings or any of the other vendors mentioned here. Any of the parts purchased and reviewed for this article have been purchased at full price from our team's car development budget and Roger's own pocket. StudioVRM is an Amazon Associate, which means that we get a small amount of referral income if you buy a product using any Amazon links in the article. We would be very appreciative if you did just that. These reviews and tests are fairly expensive to conduct, and the affiliate income barely covers the cost of the coffee that the author is drinking as he writes this sentence.

For those of us who might not know, StudioVRM.Racing made the decision to step away from the US Touring Car Championship at the end of the 2025 season. The reason was simple. Like many of the volunteers and participants, we felt that the series organizers were asking too much of the teams and participants while failing to do the basics to run a professional racing series. The final straw came when the series produced this AI-Generated slop trophy at the last race of the 2025 season: On its own, this was bad enough. The racing community had just borne witness to Pittsburgh International Race Complex, a beloved American racetrack being erased to make room for an AI data center. But what made this unforgivable was what this represented - a slap in the face to Sam Draiss , the tremendously talented up-and-coming photographer who had poured countless hours into telling the series' story through his art. His work elevated the championship, supported the teams, and brought life to the track and paddock. This trophy was proof of how little the series valued the people who made the series what it was. And it was an insult to us as well - as we at StudioVRM had been covering 100% of his photography fees and web development costs for the series nationwide. Seeing all that work dismissed so casually through the half-hearted responses from the Series Directors of both coasts was painful, to say the least. So we declared our intentions and left the series. When the wife of the East Coast series director sent us a nasty message criticizing our message, we knew we made the right choice. Thankfully, our sponsors and fans have been very supportive of our position and have happily followed us out the door. So that leaves us with one question - What's next for StudioVRM.Racing ? The reality is, we have enough invitations that we could have spent the year being a hired gun for other teams. But none of us would have been happy with that. And neither would the thousands of you who have supported us over the years. So for the 2026 season, we are doubling down on what we believe. We are going to continue developing the StudioVRM Honda Prelude TC in the same direction that we have in the USTCC. Becuase the USTCC rulebook is so different from other SCCA classes, our plan is to enter it in the SCCA Improved Touring E class - A catch-all class for closed roof cars that meet the safety requirements for SCCA Improved Touring. Our competition? Everything. Muscle cars, Big-Bore bruisers, Ethanol-sipping featherweight cruisers, and firebreathing GT1 monsters. In essence, it's going to be Honda Prelude vs the World. Let's be clear - This is going to be an uphill battle. Even with the expertise of our powertrain partner Bad Guys Worldwide and the technical brilliance of our friends at Blue Leaf Technologies, we will not be out-muscling the frontrunners in the Big Bore pack. But in the tight, twisty confines of the more technical tracks in this region, we are ready to fight. What we lack in raw horsepower, we have in handling, setup, and creative freedom. We will give it everything we have, race like there is no tomorrow, and keep bringing you the race reports, tests, and articles that we always have. See you at the track. Very soon. ~R

StudioVRM is the racing enthusiast's source for tech tips, product reviews, tool hacks, and well-kept racing secrets. Race Hard. Bloom in Chaos. 1 2 3 4 5 The Car: StudioVRM Honda Prelude - TC "Kikka" Technical Specs The Driver: Roger Maeda Meet the Driver – Author – Mechanic known as "Touring Car Racing's Greatest Loser." Driver Bio Latest Articles Our Partners Racing Secrets Blog 1 2 3 4 5

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Driver bio for Roger Maeda, the Driver-Author-Mechanic known as "Touring Car Racing's Greatest Loser." Roger Maeda Driver/Author – StudioVRM Racing Team Stats Height: 5'8" (172 cm) Weight: 175 lbs (77 kg) Born: Kyoto, Japan Resides: East Brunswick, New Jersey Nationality: United States of America Trivia Daily Driver: Toyota FJ Cruiser Favorite Driver(s): Jenson Button, Kaz Nakajima Favorite F1 Team: Racing Bulls Likes: Chess, Precision Pistol, Italian Food Motto: Let every loss make you stronger. Pro Touring Car Racing's Greatest Loser Racing the road less traveled means encountering more obstacles than the average driver. As a result, Roger Maeda is no stranger to losing. Yet, through every defeat Maeda has grown stronger, faster, and wiser. As he steps up to the flagship TC class of the USTCC in 2025, Maeda strives to push the limits of car, driver, and technology in pursuit of even greater performance. Racing Record *Season in progress 2026 SCCA - ITE 2025 USTCC East Series - TC Class 5th 2024 US Touring Car Championship East Series - SP Class 2nd 2023 US Touring Car Championship East Series - SP Class 🏆1st 2022 US Touring Car Championship East Series - SP Class 2021 SCCA Club Racing - Super Touring Under 2020 SCCA Club Racing - Super Touring Under 2019 SCCA Club Racing - Super Touring Under 2018 US Touring Car Championship East Series 2017 SCCA Pro-IT Series 2nd in ITS 2016 SCCA Club Racing - Improved Touring S Class 2015 SCCA Club Racing - Improved Touring S Class 2014 SCCA Club Racing - Improved Touring S Class 2013 IMG Endurance Racing Series 🏆1st in PI-4 2013 IMG Sprint Race Series 2012 IMG Sprint Race Series 2011 EMRA Sprint Race Series 2010 EMRA Time Trial Series 🏆1st in ST-4 2009 EMRA Time Trial Series 2008 EMRA Time Trial Series